About Karen Baksi

Karen Baksi - Food has always been a huge part of my life. There’s a picture of me on my first birthday with bows and shredded newspaper on my head, opening presents but I have a huge frown on my face. My mother told me that I was sick with a fever so my birthday wasn’t turning out so well… until my mom brought out a traditional Korean birthday soup, Miyuk Guk, seaweed soup. As soon as my mom spooned a bite of soup with rice, my frown disappeared. I truly believe that food can cure the soul! I recently quit my corporate job to pursue my interests and passion in the culinary world. Now I am living the life that was meant for me: to cook, eat, and travel the world! And of course write articles for my favorite food site, Food Trotter! I hope that all of you will enjoy my take on food, travel, and life!
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Feliz Cinco de Mayo!

As we enter the beautiful month of May, San Francisco really begins to bloom.  The sun decides to peek out over the winter fog and the citizens begin to prepare for our summer season of ethnic holidays.  One of the most festive and widely celebrated days is Cinco de Mayo, which commemorates the Mexican army’s victory over the French at the Battle of Puebla in 1862.  Nowadays, it really is a day to celebrate Mexico’s culture, heritage, and food.

As I look within my kitchen to whip up some guacamole for the holiday, I remember a fabulous birthday gift I received from my friends Maria and Lula, a molcajete.  It is the Mexican version of the mortar and pestle tool, a very nice addition to any cook’s repertoire and essential in making an authentic guacamole.  The molcajete is traditionally carved out of volcanic rock, naturally porous and rough which is perfect for grinding and crushing spices and vegetables.  Because of its porous nature, the molcajete is fairly difficult to fully clean so it is important to season it much like a cast iron skillet.  You also get the benefit of “seasoning” since after each preparation the flavor carries over into the next, making each use of the molcajete more flavorful.

This will be my first time using the molcajete and I’m excited to “season” it with other delicious foods, building my flavors one guacamole at a time!

One molcajete and tejolote (pestle): check!
Ingredients for guacamole: check!
1/4 to 1/2 small onion (red or vidalia), chopped
1 vine ripe tomato, chopped
1 seeded jalapeno, chopped
2-3 large avocados, halved and pitted
1 handful of cilantro leaves
Juice of 1 lime or to taste
salt to taste
Tortilla chips

Add the chopped onion, tomato, jalapeno, and salt into the molcajete and grind them together until you get your desired consistency (chunky or thin).  Scoop the avocado out and add to the tomato mixture and grind (again, to your desired consistency).  Add the cilantro and lime juice, and salt to taste.  Serve the guacamole right from the molcajete with some tortilla chips for an excellent presentation.  Buen Provecho!

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Let The Good Times Roll: Austin Style!

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In America, Mardi Gras has traditionally been known as a time of boozy over-indulgence where ladies (and the occasional gentleman) flash their goodies to strangers and are rewarded “handsomely” with strands of colorful plastic beads. It’s seen as a time to let loose and blow off steam. In fact, it is actually a part of the Christian tradition, Easter. In English, Mardi Gras means “Fat Tuesday.” This is the last day of eating rich foods before the start of the ritual fasting during Lent. Our perception of Mardi Gras as a time to cut loose has its roots with the religious meaning. My personal foodie translation of Mardi Gras (and the week leading up to Fat Tuesday) is a time for gluttonous eating and indulgence! My week was spent in Austin, Texas, where I had a whirlwind tour of classic, great institutions that never fail to deliver and some stellar, new and unique places as well.

Dirty Sixth
If you want to feel like a college student in Austin, get in one of their popular pedi-cabs and head on down to the Dirty Sixth! Located in a section of downtown that is east of Congress Street, this area of bars, clubs, music venues and restaurants are teeming with college kids and twenty-somethings looking to party. To capitalize on this market, many street food vendors come out at night to offer their delights to the drunken, and now starving partiers. One of these vendors is the Best Wurst stand located at the corner of E. Sixth St. and San Jacinto. This is – hands down – one of the best sausages I have ever eaten. In fact, in our drunken stupor, my husband ate his dog, then asked for a bite of mine, which I never got back :(!! Best Wurst offers 4 kinds of sausages: Bratwurst, Smoked Italian, Smoked Jalapeno, and All Beef, each of which can be topped with grilled onions, sauerkraut, curry ketchup and spicy mustard. All sausages are priced at an affordable $4.50. The quality of the meat used in the sausages is top notch and the flavors (especially smoked jalapeno) were fantastic. It had that nice popping sound as you bite into the sausage and the heat from the smoked jalapeno was just enough to make you want to grab another beer. But the winner in all of their offerings was the curry ketchup. It jazzed up my tastebuds with the spiciness of the curry and the sweetness from the ketchup, really enhancing the flavor. It most definitely lived up to it’s name, the Best Wurst!

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North Austin
After waking up with a raging hangover due to the fact that this thirty-something was trying to party like it was 1999, I needed some sustenance to help tide the rumblings in my stomach. When I’m in my hometown of San Francisco, I know of many hangover cures that are readily available, but my top choice is always a hot steaming bowl of Vietnamese pho (noodle soup). I really didn’t expect an authentic, down home Vietnamese place in the middle of Texas, but North Austin has Pho Dan. The pho is delicately layered with flavor, beginning with the clear and salty sweet broth. At Pho Dan, you can request your thinly sliced raw eye of round beef on the side as well as steamed bean sprouts to ensure your broth stays piping hot. They also offer dandelion greens, basil, thick jalapeno slices and juicy lemons to help enhance the soup, flavor by flavor. At around $7 a small bowl, the pho is good for your pocket book as well as your hangover. Definitely check out Pho Dan if you’re in Austin, it’s worth it.

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Round Rock
North of Austin near the city of Round Rock, is a place called Razzoo’s Cajun Cafe where they offer traditional Cajun-style food like boiled crawfish, assorted po-boys, and the classic New Orleans gumbo. The establishment feels like a chain-restaurant with lines out the door and those electronic buzzer things. But the comparisons stop there. Razzoo’s knows how to do Cajun. My all-Louisiana based friends and I opted for boiled crawfish in honor of Mardi Gras and at $4.99 a pound (a Mardi Gras special), it was definitely worth it! Heaps of crawfish are set down in front of you with a nice warm wet towel to wipe your hands and face. If you’ve never had crawfish before but you like crab, shrimp, or lobster, you probably understand what it means to work hard for a tiny morsel of seafood goodness. Be sure to twist off the crawfish tail and suck the wonderful juices and “butter” from the head before you finally fish out the tail meat. The spiciness from the boil penetrates the shells of the crawfish and basically marinates the meat and butter to perfection. Included in the boil are spiced red potatoes and corn. To cool your mouth down from the spiciness, hit it with a bite of potato and corn (as well as a swig of local beer). Order a lot because it’s easy to rack up the poundage: my party of 5 easily polished off 20 pounds of the tasty mudbugs!

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SoCo – South Congress
Congress Street is one of the main thoroughfares in Austin. It cuts through the downtown area and leads to the Capital building. On the southern end is an area called South Congress, or SoCo. There are a lot of funky thrift and antique stores as well as bars with beer gardens like Doc’s and the San Jose hotel. Of course, restaurants are a plenty which includes the South Congress Cafe. A local of Austin claimed that the SoCo Cafe has the best bloody mary in town and I was determined to make that assessment. Everything in the bloody mary is made in-house, the pepper/celery/jalapeno/lime/lemon/garlic infused vodka packs a powerful flavor punch which is blended nicely with the sweet and spicy bloody mary mix ($6.75). Indeed it was one of the best bloody marys I’ve ever had. As for the food, everything we had was pretty tasty, especially the Carrot Cake French Toast with a side of bacon ($16). The carrot cake was thickly sliced and dipped in a vanilla cinnamon batter and served with their original cream cheese-pecan syrup. I’m usually not a sweet breakfast person but the dish sounded so decadent that I had to try it. It was a pleasant surprise, not too sweet and had a nice dense texture. The cream cheese-pecan syrup gave it that extra richness and the side of salty bacon was the perfect compliment. We also tried the traditional eggs benedict with a chipotle hollandaise sauce ($9) which was perfectly executed but nothing new in flavor town. All in all, the food was great and the bloody marys were awesome.

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Driftwood
Just 20 minutes southwest of Austin in the city of Driftwood lies a behemoth BBQ joint called Salt Lick. It has been featured on many travel/foodie shows and its reputation is well earned. There are scores of people lining up to try this BBQ so make sure you get there early or be prepared to wait at least 30 minutes. There is a nice waiting area with picnic tables and even a small stage for bands to perform. Another great part of Salt Lick is that its BYOB…bring your own booze! But once you make it into the main dining area, its all about BBQ. Sitting right next to the entrance of the restaurant, the huge circular BBQ pit produces delectable meats including beef brisket, sausage, pork ribs, beef ribs, and pulled pork. All are tender and juicy, especially the pulled pork. Salt Lick also provides two types of barbecue sauce, regular and habanero. Their bases are similar, marrying sweetness with a nice tang, but the habanero is kicked up with heat from the peppers. Dousing your BBQ with either sauce is probably a great idea! Salt Lick’s combination plate, which includes brisket, sausage, and pork ribs ($11.95), is served with a tangy German style potato salad and a simple vinegar based cole slaw. Both sides provide the perfect counterpoint to the BBQ. Salt Lick is a great place to meet and sit with friends and family to have a few beers and eat some good old Texas barbecue.

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Austin was a great place to “fatten” myself up in the name of Mardi Gras. The vibe of the city is wholeheartedly fun and eclectic. It’s an artsy and musical place with many great restaurant and food choices. It was the perfect place to blow off some steam and soak up the local Texas color. As the Cajuns say, Laissez les bons temps rouler!

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A Romantic B&B Tour of Costa Rica: a Perfect Way to Show Your Love on Valentine’s Day (or Month)!

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All vacations carry an air of excitement, especially when visiting a foreign country. The jitters and stressful anticipation we sometimes get the night before can cause a restless night of sleep, but that can hopefully be made up by catching some z’s on the plane. Once you get to your destination, the real adventure begins! But what can really make your trip special and romantic are the places you choose to unwind and recount the experiences of the day. Booking the right hotel can really enhance your vacation as well as the memories you bring back. But how can you tell one place from another? Where should you stay?

For my trip to Costa Rica with my husband, we chose to stay exclusively at B&Bs (Bed & Breakfasts) because of their cozier, more intimate atmosphere when compared to standard hotel. B&Bs can vary in price, but many are actually much cheaper than hotels and often provide that extra touch – like included breakfast or a communal tea time with snacks in the afternoon. As an avid traveler, I personally prefer the more human connection you establish with the proprietors of the B&B and their guests; striking up friendships and sharing your love of the country and what it has to offer.

One such place located very close to the international airport in San Jose is Alegria B&B.  Owned and operated by George, an American ex-pat from Tennessee, Alegria is a little bit of Southern comfort in the bustling area of Alajuela. There are 4 different rooms to choose from ranging in price from $45-$70 (US), all of which include a full breakfast. George has created a clean, open, and welcoming environment, perfect as an introduction to Costa Rica. The location is also convenient because of its proximity to the airport, which made it a great choice to bookend our trip. Eating around Alajuela is a little challenging if you don’t know the area but George can provide you with recommendations and a map. Just down the road from Alegria, there’s a ceviche place called Mana’s Marisqueria which was wonderful. It serves up authentic ceviche and Tico style (native Costa Rican) food like arroz con mariscos (rice with seafood), patacones (fried plantains), and tacos. Mana’s is a local legal hangout since it’s located across the street from the Tribunales de Justicia (courthouse). A meal for 3 people consisting of two orders of ceviche, patacones, octopus in garlic, and two orders of carne asada taco plates with plenty of wine cost 30,000 colones ($60 US). Mana’s is definitely worth checking out if you’re ever in the area.

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Our next stop was a two night stay in the La Fortuna/Arenal area at the most romantic and beautiful B&B overlooking the majestic Volcan Arenal. Birdsong B&B only has 2 rooms but both have sweeping views of the volcano and Lake Arenal. The upper room is priced at a hefty $180/ night, but includes an in-room jacuzzi, fluffy king size bed, flat screen tv with satellite, full kitchen and fridge, and a unique and fun outdoor shower! Allan, the owner, is originally from New York City and really goes out of his way to make you feel special. He has an incredible cook on staff and will prepare a delicious Tico meal upon request. My husband and I encountered some foggy and rainy weather during our stay but our spectacular room more than made up for the lack of view! The downstairs unit is smaller but also has a great view and a small kitchenette for $90/a night including breakfast. Because of the bad weather, we ate most of our meals at Birdsong but we did explore a bit of Fortuna and ended up at the Los Lagos Resort restaurant. We ordered their house ceviche and a couple of local beers ($20 US). The ceviche was fresh, lightly sweet with a nice citrus tang and was served with patacones. Ceviche is very popular in Costa Rica and most restaurants have their own version and the flavors vary ever so slightly, which makes for a fun time comparing the different versions.

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As we made our way down the coast to the Osa Peninsula, we stopped over in Manuel Antonio for a couple of days. Manuel Antonio offers spectacular beaches, perfect for a romantic sunset stroll, walking hand in hand and feeling the soft sand and waves tickling your toes. We loved our stay at La Posada Jungle Bungalows located right next door to the entrance of Manuel Antonio National Park.  Mike, the proprietor, has created a lush and wild jungle vibe at La Posada, even getting some appearances from our animal friends who call the park their home (a deer and capuchin monkeys)! The rooms range from $100/a night for a room in the main house to $225/a night for La Casa, a 6 person guest house. We stayed in one of the bungalows that had 2 queen beds, tv/dvd player, fridge & microwave with air conditioning for $125/a night. La Posada includes a full breakfast with all rooms and also offers free dvds of the latest movies. They even provide you with a complimentary bag of popcorn so you can snuggle up in bed and have a movie night! As an added bonus, they offer dinner & movie nights where Jonathan, their cook, creates a fabulous meal for $6.50 and they show the latest movies. My husband and I partook in one of those nights and enjoyed a great meal of grilled steak and tilapia, steamed veggies, salad, and home-made cookies. At La Posada, they try and create a friendly all-inclusive environment that makes a traveler really feel at home.

For our final stop on this whirlwind tour of Costa Rica, we spent five full days in a small town on the Osa Peninsula called Bahia Drake (Drake Bay). Located a short drive up the hill from the center of town, Finca Maresia B&B is nestled against the rainforest and truly is a natural wonder.  We stayed in one of the superior bungalows for $85/a night for two people. Our bungalow had 2 queen beds with mosquito nets and an overhead room fan. The bungalows are built upon stilts and their layout is almost completely open with glass sliding doors that lead out to a balcony with hammock. One of the best parts of the bungalows is the fully open shower; but since the building is situated towards the jungle, only the inhabitants of the rainforest can peek in! The grounds of Finca Maresia are beautifully sculpted with stone tile walkways and lush grass and colorful flora. High upon the hill is where the main gathering area of the B&B is located. This is where all meals, drinks, conversations with guests, and extra hammock time are taken. Breakfast is included and you can always opt to dine in at the B&B for dinner ($12 US). Our first night there, we enjoyed fresh tuna tartare that was caught earlier that day by another guest and a delicious dinner of albondigas (Spanish meatballs). Miguel, the owner, is originally from Spain and brings some Spanish flare in the cuisine. Finca Maresia offers travelers a place to relax and enjoy themselves in a peaceful and tranquil environment.

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Costa Rica is one of my favorite places on earth. The food is simple but fresh, fresh, fresh! The awe-inspiring natural wonders that the country has to offer will appeal to all nature lovers. It was a pleasure to be able to share this experience with my husband, which makes Costa Rica (in my humble opinion) one of the most romantic places on earth!

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Exploring Costa Rica’s stunning scenery and cuisine: A travel diary of Karen’s adventures in Costa Rica!

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Day One: Alajuela/ San Jose
Whew, we finally made it! After a grueling day of traveling and being delayed for close to 7 hours, my husband, G and I made it to San Jose, Costa Rica! We drove ourselves from the airport in a rental to our B&B. Thank goodness for GPS and very friendly people, who are versed in signing and motioning! There are no addresses in Costa Rica so you have to depend on signs and good instructions. TIP: If you are driving, I highly recommend paying a little extra for a GPS. Looking forward to getting out of the “big” city and exploring the countryside!

Day Two: on the road to El Castillo, La Fortuna area
Travel day! Because we didn’t know how long it would take us to drive up to the Arenal area in northwestern Costa Rica, we didn’t make any plans other than to drive to our next destination. We started off our day with a large platter of fresh fruit: pineapple, mango, papaya, watermelon, and banana, as well as some home-made banana bread, scrambled eggs, bacon, and orange juice, provided by our B&B. TIP: Forgo the large hotel or resorts and stay at B&Bs. You’ll find that the rooms and environment are cozier and more personal. Many a friendship has been struck up with other guests when staying at B&Bs. Also, most B&Bs in Costa Rica offer a very large and satisfying breakfast, which is included.

Memorable meal: An authentic Tico lunch which consisted of gallo pinto (black beans and rice mixture), garlic marinated chicken, sauteed chayote, and a simple cabbage salad with lime juice. After a hard day’s driving, the late lunch was divine and good on our pocketbooks at $10 USD/ serving.

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Day Three: Fun in La Fortuna
What a fun and rainy day! TIP: always bring a change of warmer clothing when traveling to the mountains. You never know when a cold snap could blow through! We woke up to a beautiful breakfast: over easy eggs, fried yucca, gallo pinto, and a fresh fruit platter. We ate the most curious fruit: guanabana. It tastes like strawberry/ pineapple but then has a creamy texture like coconut and the consistency of an over-ripened lychee; very strange but good flavor! After breakfast, we headed over to Los Lagos (The lakes) resort to go on a horseback ride through the countryside. At $45/ person, it was a great 2.5 hour ride, albeit wet! The entrance fee also allows you to check out their butterfly, frogs, and crocodile enclosures as well as the hot springs.

Memorable Meal: Another authentic Tico dinner of patacones, pan-fried tilapia, rice, papas fritas (essentially french fries) and a salad! Total clean plate club member!!  ($10/ person)

Day Four: On the road again to Monteverde
Before we shoved off to our next destination, we filled our bellies with another fantastic breakfast of fried eggs, gallo pinto, fried yucca, and hand-made tortillas. Along with this breakfast, we tried some homemade hot sauce and boy was it hot! Flames were being thrown like the now-dormant-but-once-fiery Volcano Arenal.

I was glad we filled our bellies early because the drive from El Castillo to Monteverde is a tough one! The road is 10 times worse than the road into El Castillo. The terrain is just chock full of rocks and deep pot-holes. A 4×4 car is a MUST, although we saw many a local drive it in their compact Civics and Kias. TIP: If you rent a car and are headed to the north-western area of CR, rent a 4×4, always. A lot of travel websites say you only need one in the wet season but I think you need one even in the dry season to handle the road conditions. Driving through the country really helps you get a great look at local life and, of course, the beautiful scenery. The mountains and hills near Monteverde are absolutely picturesque! It took us around 4 hours to get to there from El Castillo.

Day Five: Tarzan swing?
We had the most amazing time this morning, met new friends, foreign and local, while zipping around the canopy of the Monteverde Cloud Forest. G and I like some high-flying adventure and that is what we got with The Original Canopy Tour group. We zip-lined from tree to tree, as high as 100 meters up in the air… absolutely thrilling!! What’s great about this kind of tour is that while you’re zipping around, you get the most beautiful backdrop to admire: the rainforest.

Afterwards, G and I hit up a couple local bars, Dos Amigos and Mata e Caña to soak up some local color. Both are great places to hang out and people watch. Make sure to make friends with Jorge at Mata e Caña, he’s a firecracker of a person! Doesn’t speak much English but if you try and speak some Spanish, you’ll end up with a friend, tequila shots, and great conversation!

Memorable Meal: For lunch we hit up a local taco stand and had 2 pork tacos and 1 beef for 3000 Colones (approx $6). They were topped with shredded lettuce, cheese, and a sour cream/ mayonnaise concoction. The tacos really hit the spot and they were convenient, fast, and tasty!  The taco stand is located just to the left of Pension Santa Elena Monteverde Hostel.  Just look for the porch where everyone is hanging out!

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Day Six: Beach time and New Years Eve!
The drive out of Monteverde is not much different from the drive in. Basically, it’s Mr. Toad’s Wild ride, just bumpier and at half the pace. Thankfully, we soon found out that after around 20kms, we hit pavement and smooth sailing. As soon as we got to our B&B, we changed into our bathing suits and hit the beach! Manuel Antonio is a popular destination for Costa Ricans and tourists to cool their heels with a beautiful beach backdrop. The atmosphere is decidedly relaxed and buzzing with a good time. There are a lot of beach side restaurants and bars you can pop into and grab a bite. The menus are catered to the Western tourist but you can find some Tico styled dishes like calamari in tomato broth from Las Gemelas (The Twins).

Memorable Meal: Agua Azul, hands down, is the coolest restaurant in Manuel Antonio. With a view to die for, the fusion fare served here is excellent matching the friendly staff’s service. Although we did not have a reservation, G and I were able to sit at the bar, which in my opinion was the best seat in the restaurant. Since it was after dark, the view was pretty much non-existent but my straight shot vantage point into the bustling kitchen was amazing. For our appetizer, we ordered their tuna tartar which was similar to Hawaiian tuna poke, served on cucumber slices and a crab rangoon fritter with sweet chile sauce. For our mains, we ordered a thai green curry with mussels, shrimp, fish, and veggies, served over udon noodles and a rack of pork ribs with a house-made currant BBQ sauce. Everything was delicious but the portion sizes were enormous. We probably could have shared one of the entrees and still have leftovers! It was a very expensive meal but well worth the $120 price tag, which included several rounds of drinks and a complimentary shot for NYE!

After this momentous meal, we headed down to the beach to ring in the new year! Bonfire, fireworks, and the peaceful and mellow sounds of Bob Marley pushed us into the wee hours of 2011.

Day Seven: Manuel Antonio National Park
After popping a few Advil for the mid-morning NYE haze, G and I headed out for a guided tour of Manuel Antonio National park. We had the tour arranged fairly last minute by our B&B. TIP: Make arrangements for a tour through your B&B or hotel. They can make a good recommendation for tour companies and sometimes will provide a discount! For $20 per person plus the $10 park entrance fee, you will get an in-depth over view of the park itself and the wildlife. Our guide, William, was a wealth of knowledge about the park and the inhabitants. He espoused the virtues of maintaining the natural life-cycles of the animals as not to contaminate the food chains and their environment. We were able to see many animals including the 3 toed sloth and two species of monkeys through a telescope for an upclose view and amazing pictures.

Day Eight: Bahia Drake, here we come!
G and I had so much fun in Manuel Antonio that we didn’t want to leave, but I knew that the Osa Peninsula and Bahia Drake would hold new adventures for us, so after a hearty breakfast of gallo pinto and fried eggs, we began our drive south. Most of the road down to the Osa Peninsula from Manuel Antonio is paved and easy to navigate. As you get to Chacarita and Rincon, the road begins to fill with pot-holes and then eventually, the paved road is no more. Again, the roads are rocky and very bumpy. Once you get within 30 kms of Bahia drake, the river crossings begin! Thankfully, the river is fairly low so the crossings were pretty easy. The one thing we learned about river crossings, keep straight and go slow without decelerating. Again, a 4×4 is a must! There is no way a regular sedan can cover this terrain. The whole trip from Manuel Antonio to Bahia drake took around 5 1/2 hours.

Day Nine: Beaches and waterfalls
With the jungle noises in full swing, I woke up to the chirping of birds, insects, and monkeys at 5:30 am in the morning. It was a glorious wake up call to start a fantastic day. The sun was shining and we were scheduled to take a 15 minute boat ride to a beach, then walk back to Bahia Drake which would take 2.5 hours. The beach was everything you want a beach to be, fairly deserted, fine sand, and gentle flowing waves. It was absolute paradise. After spending about an hour, G and I and some others that joined us started to make our way back to Drake. Along the way, we encountered a whimsical encampment offering canoe tours up the Rio Claro to several waterfalls. The trip up river was well worth the $12 price tag. The canoe trip was serene and soul fulfilling with a backdrop of the celadon and green rainforest. The waterfalls and natural pools were exhilarating and refreshing as we jumped from waterfall to waterfall. It was a great 2 1/2 hour detour on our way back to the bay. As we made our way back, we stopped from beach to beach, soaking up the sun and beauty of our surroundings.

Day Ten: Pepe and the Jacuzzi
Another early start and a great day ahead of us, we started with a nice breakfast of eggs over easy with gallo pinto and fresh fruit. TIP: Take advantage of the plentiful supply of exotic fruits, pineapple, papaya, watermelon, bananas guava, guanabana, etc. Something is always in season in Costa Rica! Pepe is a local of Bahia Drake that owns acres and acres of primary rainforest land. He values the nature the way it was intended and has not touched most of his property. We started with an hour horseback ride to his home, and then tromped around the rainforest without any trails. Eventually, Pepe lead us to a hidden lagoon and waterfall, including a natural jacuzzi. The force of the water was so immense that I had to hold onto my bikini bottoms!! Back at his home, his wife Maria, a Reiki master, prepared us a delicious meal of tuna soup, potato egg salad, beef in gravy, spanish rice, and a coconut flan. Most of the food was prepared in the most unusual way, a solar stove. It’s a huge inverted aluminum dome powered by harnessing the sun’s rays. It was the most peculiar kitchen utensil I’ve ever seen but economical as well as environmental! Pepe and his family were truly inspiring, spreading the gospel of nature and using our environment to our advantage.  Our adventure tour plus meal only cost $40/ person, well worth the cost.

Day Eleven: Corcovado National Park
We started the morning early… very early! At 6 am we took an hour long boat ride to a beach in Corcovado National Park. Along the way, we saw a baby humpback whale breach the surface. What a chill inducing sight! From that moment on, we knew it was going to be a great day! Although it was raining the first half of the day, as we hiked along the Sirena trail in Corcovado, the rain subsided and allowed the sun to come out. Corcovado was called by National Geographic as “the most biologically intense place on earth.” They were not wrong. We saw over 30 different birds including pelicans, hawks, vultures, parrots, woodpeckers, sandpipers, and macaws. We also encounter a troop of wild pigs, all four types of monkeys: spider, squirrel, howler, and capuchin, crocodiles, lizards, and the most exciting of all, a sleeping tapir. G and I were in awe of the diversity of the wildlife and flora in Corcovado. This is an amazing place and if you have the opportunity to visit, I wholeheartedly recommend it. It will change your life.

After that amazing hike, we boated back to the bay and decided to have a meal in town at the Bahia Drake Restaurant and Bar. Curt, an American ex-pat from Ohio, runs and cooks at the restaurant and does everything to order. He acquires whatever veggies that are fresh from the farm and of course, all of his seafood is caught in the bay that morning. We started out with an order of patacones with a fresh tomato and onion salsa and then ordered the whole red snapper grilled in a banana leaf served with sauteed vegetables and mashed potatoes ($7/ person). Fresh, fresh, and fresh!

Day Twelve: R&R on vacation
After 11 days of non-stop action, my husband and I decided to take a breather and relax. The night before, Miguel, the owner of our B&B overheard my husband talking about my new venture as a caterer/personal chef. He came over to me and asked if I would like to cook dinner the next night for all the guests. I happily agreed and immediately began to feel nervous. After breakfast, I went over to the kitchen and started to prep for dinner with their in-house chef, Subita. On the menu was an avocado black bean dip served with potato crisps, pumpkin apple soup, and garlic, rosemary, and oregano marinated red snapper (was swimming earlier that morning) served with rice and chayote. Subita provided the dessert, a carrot cake with cream cheese frosting. It was a lot of work, prepping and finishing 14 servings but it was all worth it. The guest were satisfied and of course, I got a huge ego boost! It was the most perfect way to end my vacation!

Costa Rica is truly a gem of a country. The people, the food, and the wildlife are absolutely spectacular. Like their country’s motto, Costa Rica is truly Pura Vida!

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Food Memories of Sydney Australia

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Once upon a time (1770 to be exact), Australia was an island that was claimed by Britain and used as a far-away place to send their convicted criminals to serve out their sentences in a penal colony. Today, it has evolved into a self-governing Commonwealth realm. In contrast with the Anglo-Saxon criminals it was once settled by in the late 18th century, it is now a country with pockets of diverse ethnic populations, especially in the major cities of Sydney and Melbourne. Because of this diversity, the cuisine has taken a decidedly delicious turn. In my down under experiences, I realized that Australia not only has beautiful scenery, a wealth of culture, but also a diversity of cuisine that will really surprise the traveler’s palette.

After a 14 hour flight from SFO, I was anxious to get out and see the attractions: the Harbour Bridge and Opera House alone are juggernauts of sight-seeing!  They are magnificent structures that help bring countless tourists to its shores.  Along Darling Harbour – where the Opera House sits – there are several high end seafood restaurants on the pier.  My Aussie hosts and I decided to pursue a potentially “touristy” path and sit outside and enjoy some of the fruits of the sea with a glass of champagne. Needless to say, when the platter came out, I was in absolute heaven. Crabs, oysters, and these curious creatures called “bay bugs” were laid out for us to enjoy. Bay bugs are a type of flathead lobster similar to the Pacific spiny lobster. The meat has the consistency of lobster but is not as sweet. And the oysters were absolutely gigantic!  They were very tasty: creamy in texture with a wonderful hint of the salty ocean. I, personally, prefer smaller oysters like the Kumamoto, but the flavor of the Sydney Rock oyster is fantastic. As is typical for raw bars, the bill was quite hefty (the champagne didn’t help!) This is a splurge moment, not for a frugal traveler. These types of places command their premium for location and food quality, but sometimes it is worth the price.

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As I explored more of Sydney, I stumbled into Chinatown, located near the harbour on Haymarket.  This is Australia’s largest Chinatown. This bustling neighborhood offers a huge mix of grocery stores, restaurants, cafes, food stands, and clothing & jewelry stores. Chinatown is always buzzing with activity… people walking through, visiting, or conducting business and, of course, eating. Common in Chinatowns, there are food courts with different kinds of Asian cuisines.  It’s a cheap and fun way to explore the the local ethnic foods, and Sydney is no exception. Amongst the Thai soups, Vietnamese noodles, Chinese Dim Sum, and Mongolian BBQ, there was a Malaysian Roti stand. I ordered one roti canai, which is a type of flatbread served with a coconut milk curry. The roti was perfect, soft in the center but crispy on the outer edges.  It went very well with the coconut milk curry, slightly sweet and pretty spicy.  Although my roti was a savory snack, it can also be accompanied with condensed milk for a sweet treat.  My wallet was also happy since the roti canai cost me $3.50 AUD ($3.29 USD).

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Now, a travel food article about Australia cannot be complete without a mention of the unofficial Australian “national dish”: the meat pie. A meat pie is an individual sized pastry containing diced or minced meat and gravy.  There are various interpretations of the dish, some have been refined for fine dining but most meat pies are often eaten as a convenient to-go snack. They are even sold in most local convenience stores, mostly minced meat and gravy types served with tomato sauce (ketchup). My first meat pie in Australia was at the famous and aptly called “Australian Hotel” near the historic “Rocks” area of Sydney harbor. I ordered a beef and bock pie made with Australian beef braised in a bock style beer. It was definitely a little more upscale with puff pastry and a price tag of $18.90 AUD ($17.75 USD). Nevertheless, the beer infused gravy – slightly bitter and rich – was a nice complement to the succulent beef and the flaky puff pastry crust. I also sampled a beef and tomato pie at a Brumby’s, an Australian chain bakery. This pie tasted more like a sloppy joe, salty and slightly sweet, making it a satisfying snack. I can understand why Aussies are so crazy for these bite size pies!

Australia was an amazing place!  My three weeks went by so quickly, but my experiences culinary, and otherwise will always remain deeply in my heart.

[Pictures courtesy of Karen, ifood, ICCTA, and gamespot]

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A Taste of Thailand: Bangkok Street Food, Beaches, and a lot of Tourists!

Recently, I had the honor of attending a concert at the San Francisco Symphony featuring the violin virtuoso, Joshua Bell. As I was listening to his incredible performance, my mind began to wander from music… to food. What is the food equivalent to Joshua Bell? Some might find it odd comparing a person to food, but his music reminded me of one of the best meals I’ve had in recent years.

I was lucky enough to travel to Thailand for my honeymoon back in January of 2008. It’s located in the heart of Southeast Asia, bordered by Burma, Laos, Cambodia, the Gulf of Thailand, and Malaysia. Because of it’s geographical location, Thailand has been influenced by these neighboring countries in culture and food. This definitely makes for a happy belly!

We arrived in Bangkok in the wee hours of the morning, worn out from the jetlag. Tired, but hungry and almost overwhelmed by the heat and humidity, we ventured out for our first meal.  Street food is very popular in Thailand, and as we roamed around, we were mesmerized by the variety of the noodle and snack vendors lining the streets. It’s safe to eat for westerners, but one should always use common sense. If you see skewers of raw meat sitting out in the heat for an extended amount of time, do not try them! I found street food to be an affordable and delicious way to eat through the country.

For our very first taste of Thailand, we decided to try a bowl of (street) noodles. We didn’t speak a lick of Thai and the street vendors generally do not speak any English, but it really doesn’t matter. Case in point: when choosing my meal, the vendor pointed to a glass case that was situated on her cart. Inside the case, there were two choices: thin or thick rice noodles. You really can’t go wrong with either, but I opted for the thinner noodles. Two steaming bowls were set down in front of us, but even the sauna-like conditions couldn’t keep us from immediately diving in!  The broth was very flavorful on its own, salty and slightly sweet, but nearly clear in color. This went well with the delicate fish balls, onion slices, cilantro, mung bean sprouts, and crispy fried fish skins. Thai cuisine has fairly complex flavors that are born from simple ingredients. They’ve mastered the art of mixing salty, sweet, tangy, and spicy flavors, and no Thai table is complete without little pots of sugar, dried bird chili flakes, ground peanuts, fish sauce and chilies in vinegar. This lets you mix and match whatever flavors you want to bring out (much like how a soloist contributes and complements the symphony). Bangkok offers a variety of different cuisines and even the average noodle vendor is excellent so you really can’t go wrong by exploring the city and tasting all of the the different culinary delights.

After we left Bangkok, we headed towards the western coast: Aonang (in the Krabi province) and Koh Phi Phi. Aonang is a quaint, coastal city, but over the years it has seen a huge influx of European tourists. Because of this, the local businesses and restaurants have changed their menus to cater to their European palate so food like Pad Thai or Plaa Raad Prik (whole fried fish with sweet chili sauce) is not as spicy, and instead very sweet. This is also true on Koh Phi Phi (a resort Island), where every restaurant serves virtually identical dishes.  Although Aonang and Koh Phi Phi are absolutely beautiful places, the scenery is marred with tourists in peak season. I highly recommend going to Thailand during the off-season which runs from March through October. The down side to this is that it coincides with the rainy season (April to October). March seems to be the best time of year to go; it’s off-season and the rains usually haven’t started up yet. If you visit Thailand during the peak season, Chiang Mai and the northern regions are preferable if you want to avoid swarms of tourists, but it won’t be a beach vacation.

Although the Thai beach towns can be inundated with tourists, the very metropolitan Bangkok is a fantastic city to explore. Thailand offers beautiful scenery and great food, especially street vendors. The bowl of noodles alone will definitely bring me back to Bangkok. Like Joshua Bell and the SF orchestra, I am reminded of how every culinary element in that bowl complimented each other to make a truly tasty and satisfying meal.

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Hot Eats in Hotlanta! Karen’s Food Trotter Journey to Eating in Atlanta

A couple of weeks ago, my husband and I food trotted to Atlanta, Georgia to visit his sister and family. What’s the first thing that comes to mind when it comes to how I’m going to stuff my face in the South? No brainer, it’s barbecue all the way! Now, Atlanta isn’t really known as a BBQ town, not like Memphis or the Carolinas, but it definitely offers some quality BBQ. Fat Matt’s Rib Shack, DBA, and Pig-N-Chik BBQ are a few places to check out! Atlanta is also evolving and has plenty of food diversity to offer.

There are places like Richard Blais’ new place called Flip Burger Boutique.  Blais was a contestant on season 4 of Top Chef.  It’s a modern place that offers different gourmet burgers, such as the Korean BBQ burger.  This dish consists of a homemade brioche bun, a Wagyu beef patty, a Korean style boneless short rib, topped with pickled veggies (cabbage, daikon, carrots, etc.) and a red pepper paste ketchup.  It was a solid attempt, especially with the presentation, but it ended up tasting like a typical Teriyaki burger.  The most insane part of that meal was actually the fois gras milkshake my sister-in-law ordered.  I know; you’re thinking… “Fois gras?  Fattened goose/ duck liver in a milkshake??”  Well, it actually tasted pretty amazing!  There is the gross out factor that you’ll have to push back deep into the recesses of your mind, but if you trust your taste buds, they will lead you to deliciousness!  The shake is creamy with a hint of vanilla, and as you hit those fois gras bits, they melt in your mouth to give you an extra richness. It is a bit pricey for a burger joint: $14USD for the Korean BBQ burger and $9 for the milkshake, but if you consider the quality of ingredients being used, it just about justifies the price.  All in all, it was a good experience and I like that it brings different flavors and ingredients to the people of Atlanta.

Now, let’s get to the good stuff!  If you are in the ATL, there is only one place that you must hit before you leave and that is The Varsity. (You can also find another piece on The Varsity in Sammi’s article “Welcome to “HOTLANTA, the Dirty South”). It is an Atlanta institution, operating since 1928 and is the world’s largest drive-in restaurant.  The Varsity is beloved by all Atlanta residents and of course, by me.  I am very partial to the CCSD (Chili Cheese Slaw Dog): hot dog on a bun topped with beefy chili, American cheese, and tangy fresh coleslaw.  In addition to the CCSD, I ordered onion rings and a Coke.  You really can’t get better than that… or so I thought.  A Southern gentleman from the next table sauntered over and told me that I had not ordered the “best thing on the menu!”  Pray tell, what is the best thing on the menu?  He indicated that it was a Pimento Cheese Dog!  I stood straight up and walked over to the counter to order it. It’s a hot dog topped with Pimento cheese (spreadable cheese with diced roasted bell peppers), then buttered and grilled.  Absolute heaven!  I still love my CCSD but I can see why the Pimento Cheese Dog is referred to the best thing on the menu!  What’s also great about The Varsity is not only the food but the price point.  The CCSD barely weighs in at $2.61 and the Pimento dog is $1.83.  It’s not exactly a healthy meal but that can be overlooked since it’s very satisfying and easy on the wallet.  Hands down, the best meal I had in Atlanta!

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