
Day One: Alajuela/ San Jose
Whew, we finally made it! After a grueling day of traveling and being delayed for close to 7 hours, my husband, G and I made it to San Jose, Costa Rica! We drove ourselves from the airport in a rental to our B&B. Thank goodness for GPS and very friendly people, who are versed in signing and motioning! There are no addresses in Costa Rica so you have to depend on signs and good instructions. TIP: If you are driving, I highly recommend paying a little extra for a GPS. Looking forward to getting out of the “big” city and exploring the countryside!
Day Two: on the road to El Castillo, La Fortuna area
Travel day! Because we didn’t know how long it would take us to drive up to the Arenal area in northwestern Costa Rica, we didn’t make any plans other than to drive to our next destination. We started off our day with a large platter of fresh fruit: pineapple, mango, papaya, watermelon, and banana, as well as some home-made banana bread, scrambled eggs, bacon, and orange juice, provided by our B&B. TIP: Forgo the large hotel or resorts and stay at B&Bs. You’ll find that the rooms and environment are cozier and more personal. Many a friendship has been struck up with other guests when staying at B&Bs. Also, most B&Bs in Costa Rica offer a very large and satisfying breakfast, which is included.
Memorable meal: An authentic Tico lunch which consisted of gallo pinto (black beans and rice mixture), garlic marinated chicken, sauteed chayote, and a simple cabbage salad with lime juice. After a hard day’s driving, the late lunch was divine and good on our pocketbooks at $10 USD/ serving.

Day Three: Fun in La Fortuna
What a fun and rainy day! TIP: always bring a change of warmer clothing when traveling to the mountains. You never know when a cold snap could blow through! We woke up to a beautiful breakfast: over easy eggs, fried yucca, gallo pinto, and a fresh fruit platter. We ate the most curious fruit: guanabana. It tastes like strawberry/ pineapple but then has a creamy texture like coconut and the consistency of an over-ripened lychee; very strange but good flavor! After breakfast, we headed over to Los Lagos (The lakes) resort to go on a horseback ride through the countryside. At $45/ person, it was a great 2.5 hour ride, albeit wet! The entrance fee also allows you to check out their butterfly, frogs, and crocodile enclosures as well as the hot springs.
Memorable Meal: Another authentic Tico dinner of patacones, pan-fried tilapia, rice, papas fritas (essentially french fries) and a salad! Total clean plate club member!! ($10/ person)
Day Four: On the road again to Monteverde
Before we shoved off to our next destination, we filled our bellies with another fantastic breakfast of fried eggs, gallo pinto, fried yucca, and hand-made tortillas. Along with this breakfast, we tried some homemade hot sauce and boy was it hot! Flames were being thrown like the now-dormant-but-once-fiery Volcano Arenal.
I was glad we filled our bellies early because the drive from El Castillo to Monteverde is a tough one! The road is 10 times worse than the road into El Castillo. The terrain is just chock full of rocks and deep pot-holes. A 4×4 car is a MUST, although we saw many a local drive it in their compact Civics and Kias. TIP: If you rent a car and are headed to the north-western area of CR, rent a 4×4, always. A lot of travel websites say you only need one in the wet season but I think you need one even in the dry season to handle the road conditions. Driving through the country really helps you get a great look at local life and, of course, the beautiful scenery. The mountains and hills near Monteverde are absolutely picturesque! It took us around 4 hours to get to there from El Castillo.
Day Five: Tarzan swing?
We had the most amazing time this morning, met new friends, foreign and local, while zipping around the canopy of the Monteverde Cloud Forest. G and I like some high-flying adventure and that is what we got with The Original Canopy Tour group. We zip-lined from tree to tree, as high as 100 meters up in the air… absolutely thrilling!! What’s great about this kind of tour is that while you’re zipping around, you get the most beautiful backdrop to admire: the rainforest.
Afterwards, G and I hit up a couple local bars, Dos Amigos and Mata e Caña to soak up some local color. Both are great places to hang out and people watch. Make sure to make friends with Jorge at Mata e Caña, he’s a firecracker of a person! Doesn’t speak much English but if you try and speak some Spanish, you’ll end up with a friend, tequila shots, and great conversation!
Memorable Meal: For lunch we hit up a local taco stand and had 2 pork tacos and 1 beef for 3000 Colones (approx $6). They were topped with shredded lettuce, cheese, and a sour cream/ mayonnaise concoction. The tacos really hit the spot and they were convenient, fast, and tasty! The taco stand is located just to the left of Pension Santa Elena Monteverde Hostel. Just look for the porch where everyone is hanging out!

Day Six: Beach time and New Years Eve!
The drive out of Monteverde is not much different from the drive in. Basically, it’s Mr. Toad’s Wild ride, just bumpier and at half the pace. Thankfully, we soon found out that after around 20kms, we hit pavement and smooth sailing. As soon as we got to our B&B, we changed into our bathing suits and hit the beach! Manuel Antonio is a popular destination for Costa Ricans and tourists to cool their heels with a beautiful beach backdrop. The atmosphere is decidedly relaxed and buzzing with a good time. There are a lot of beach side restaurants and bars you can pop into and grab a bite. The menus are catered to the Western tourist but you can find some Tico styled dishes like calamari in tomato broth from Las Gemelas (The Twins).
Memorable Meal: Agua Azul, hands down, is the coolest restaurant in Manuel Antonio. With a view to die for, the fusion fare served here is excellent matching the friendly staff’s service. Although we did not have a reservation, G and I were able to sit at the bar, which in my opinion was the best seat in the restaurant. Since it was after dark, the view was pretty much non-existent but my straight shot vantage point into the bustling kitchen was amazing. For our appetizer, we ordered their tuna tartar which was similar to Hawaiian tuna poke, served on cucumber slices and a crab rangoon fritter with sweet chile sauce. For our mains, we ordered a thai green curry with mussels, shrimp, fish, and veggies, served over udon noodles and a rack of pork ribs with a house-made currant BBQ sauce. Everything was delicious but the portion sizes were enormous. We probably could have shared one of the entrees and still have leftovers! It was a very expensive meal but well worth the $120 price tag, which included several rounds of drinks and a complimentary shot for NYE!
After this momentous meal, we headed down to the beach to ring in the new year! Bonfire, fireworks, and the peaceful and mellow sounds of Bob Marley pushed us into the wee hours of 2011.
Day Seven: Manuel Antonio National Park
After popping a few Advil for the mid-morning NYE haze, G and I headed out for a guided tour of Manuel Antonio National park. We had the tour arranged fairly last minute by our B&B. TIP: Make arrangements for a tour through your B&B or hotel. They can make a good recommendation for tour companies and sometimes will provide a discount! For $20 per person plus the $10 park entrance fee, you will get an in-depth over view of the park itself and the wildlife. Our guide, William, was a wealth of knowledge about the park and the inhabitants. He espoused the virtues of maintaining the natural life-cycles of the animals as not to contaminate the food chains and their environment. We were able to see many animals including the 3 toed sloth and two species of monkeys through a telescope for an upclose view and amazing pictures.
Day Eight: Bahia Drake, here we come!
G and I had so much fun in Manuel Antonio that we didn’t want to leave, but I knew that the Osa Peninsula and Bahia Drake would hold new adventures for us, so after a hearty breakfast of gallo pinto and fried eggs, we began our drive south. Most of the road down to the Osa Peninsula from Manuel Antonio is paved and easy to navigate. As you get to Chacarita and Rincon, the road begins to fill with pot-holes and then eventually, the paved road is no more. Again, the roads are rocky and very bumpy. Once you get within 30 kms of Bahia drake, the river crossings begin! Thankfully, the river is fairly low so the crossings were pretty easy. The one thing we learned about river crossings, keep straight and go slow without decelerating. Again, a 4×4 is a must! There is no way a regular sedan can cover this terrain. The whole trip from Manuel Antonio to Bahia drake took around 5 1/2 hours.
Day Nine: Beaches and waterfalls
With the jungle noises in full swing, I woke up to the chirping of birds, insects, and monkeys at 5:30 am in the morning. It was a glorious wake up call to start a fantastic day. The sun was shining and we were scheduled to take a 15 minute boat ride to a beach, then walk back to Bahia Drake which would take 2.5 hours. The beach was everything you want a beach to be, fairly deserted, fine sand, and gentle flowing waves. It was absolute paradise. After spending about an hour, G and I and some others that joined us started to make our way back to Drake. Along the way, we encountered a whimsical encampment offering canoe tours up the Rio Claro to several waterfalls. The trip up river was well worth the $12 price tag. The canoe trip was serene and soul fulfilling with a backdrop of the celadon and green rainforest. The waterfalls and natural pools were exhilarating and refreshing as we jumped from waterfall to waterfall. It was a great 2 1/2 hour detour on our way back to the bay. As we made our way back, we stopped from beach to beach, soaking up the sun and beauty of our surroundings.
Day Ten: Pepe and the Jacuzzi
Another early start and a great day ahead of us, we started with a nice breakfast of eggs over easy with gallo pinto and fresh fruit. TIP: Take advantage of the plentiful supply of exotic fruits, pineapple, papaya, watermelon, bananas guava, guanabana, etc. Something is always in season in Costa Rica! Pepe is a local of Bahia Drake that owns acres and acres of primary rainforest land. He values the nature the way it was intended and has not touched most of his property. We started with an hour horseback ride to his home, and then tromped around the rainforest without any trails. Eventually, Pepe lead us to a hidden lagoon and waterfall, including a natural jacuzzi. The force of the water was so immense that I had to hold onto my bikini bottoms!! Back at his home, his wife Maria, a Reiki master, prepared us a delicious meal of tuna soup, potato egg salad, beef in gravy, spanish rice, and a coconut flan. Most of the food was prepared in the most unusual way, a solar stove. It’s a huge inverted aluminum dome powered by harnessing the sun’s rays. It was the most peculiar kitchen utensil I’ve ever seen but economical as well as environmental! Pepe and his family were truly inspiring, spreading the gospel of nature and using our environment to our advantage. Our adventure tour plus meal only cost $40/ person, well worth the cost.
Day Eleven: Corcovado National Park
We started the morning early… very early! At 6 am we took an hour long boat ride to a beach in Corcovado National Park. Along the way, we saw a baby humpback whale breach the surface. What a chill inducing sight! From that moment on, we knew it was going to be a great day! Although it was raining the first half of the day, as we hiked along the Sirena trail in Corcovado, the rain subsided and allowed the sun to come out. Corcovado was called by National Geographic as “the most biologically intense place on earth.” They were not wrong. We saw over 30 different birds including pelicans, hawks, vultures, parrots, woodpeckers, sandpipers, and macaws. We also encounter a troop of wild pigs, all four types of monkeys: spider, squirrel, howler, and capuchin, crocodiles, lizards, and the most exciting of all, a sleeping tapir. G and I were in awe of the diversity of the wildlife and flora in Corcovado. This is an amazing place and if you have the opportunity to visit, I wholeheartedly recommend it. It will change your life.
After that amazing hike, we boated back to the bay and decided to have a meal in town at the Bahia Drake Restaurant and Bar. Curt, an American ex-pat from Ohio, runs and cooks at the restaurant and does everything to order. He acquires whatever veggies that are fresh from the farm and of course, all of his seafood is caught in the bay that morning. We started out with an order of patacones with a fresh tomato and onion salsa and then ordered the whole red snapper grilled in a banana leaf served with sauteed vegetables and mashed potatoes ($7/ person). Fresh, fresh, and fresh!
Day Twelve: R&R on vacation
After 11 days of non-stop action, my husband and I decided to take a breather and relax. The night before, Miguel, the owner of our B&B overheard my husband talking about my new venture as a caterer/personal chef. He came over to me and asked if I would like to cook dinner the next night for all the guests. I happily agreed and immediately began to feel nervous. After breakfast, I went over to the kitchen and started to prep for dinner with their in-house chef, Subita. On the menu was an avocado black bean dip served with potato crisps, pumpkin apple soup, and garlic, rosemary, and oregano marinated red snapper (was swimming earlier that morning) served with rice and chayote. Subita provided the dessert, a carrot cake with cream cheese frosting. It was a lot of work, prepping and finishing 14 servings but it was all worth it. The guest were satisfied and of course, I got a huge ego boost! It was the most perfect way to end my vacation!
Costa Rica is truly a gem of a country. The people, the food, and the wildlife are absolutely spectacular. Like their country’s motto, Costa Rica is truly Pura Vida!